Playa del Carmen at a Glance

  • Best for: walkable town life, food, and a laid-back home base — not guaranteed
    ocean swimming (see sargassum note below)
  • Getting there: easy bus or shuttle from Cancún, or a short ferry ride from Cozumel
  • Where I stayed: an Airbnb near the main part of town, close to 5th Avenue, with a
    rooftop pool
  • Heads up: sargassum season can make the beaches unswimmable for stretches of the year — check recent conditions before you count on ocean time

Why I Went to Playa del Carmen

I first saw a glimpse of 5th Avenue on a day trip from Cancún, on the way back from Tulum, and I was sure I'd fall in love with the place. Not too long after my month in Oaxaca, I finally went back to spend real time there — about a month. I thought it would be one of my favorite stops in Mexico.

Instead, I hit it during a bad stretch of sargassum season: an excess of seaweed washing up on shore that pollutes the water and gives off a sulfur smell strong enough that I didn't swim in the ocean once, and only walked the beach twice the entire month.

Luckily, my Airbnb had a rooftop pool, so I still got my swimming in — just not the way I'd planned.

What I Actually Loved About Playa del Carmen

Even without much ocean time, I liked Playa del Carmen more than Cancún in almost every other way. The town itself has a great vibe — walkable, full of good food, and easy to spend hours just wandering 5th Avenue without a real plan.

If the beaches had been clear during my stay, I think this would have been one of my favorite stops in Mexico. I don't feel a strong pull to go back, but I'd genuinely give it another shot at a better time of year, because I know the version of Playa del Carmen I experienced wasn't the full picture.

Top Things to Do in Playa del Carmen

Walk 5th Avenue (Quinta Avenida)

The heart of the town — restaurants, shops, and people-watching for hours. This is where I spent most of my time, sargassum or not.

Day trip to Tulum

Ruins overlooking the coastline, plus a beach town with its own laid-back vibe. It's an easy trip from Playa del Carmen, and less distance than going from Cancun.

Ferry to Cozumel for clear water

If you hit sargassum season like I did, the fastest fix is a 45-minute ferry ride to Cozumel's west-side beaches, which tend to stay clear.

Read the full Cozumel guide →

Where to Stay in Playa del Carmen

I stayed in an Airbnb near the main part of town, within easy walking distance of 5th Avenue — and having a rooftop pool turned out to be essential during sargassum season, since it was my main source of swimming that month. If beach access is a bigger priority for you than it was for me, I'd recommend checking current sargassum reports for your travel dates before booking anything directly on the water.

Check out the interactive map below to find the perfect place to stay.

frequently asked questions

Playa del Carmen FAQ

Is Playa del Carmen good for solo travelers?

Yes, I felt comfortable here as a solo female traveler, and I think other solo travelers would be just fine here. It's walkable, well-touristed, and easy to navigate on your own.

What is sargassum, and will it affect my trip to Playa del Carmen?

Sargassum is seaweed that washes up along the Yucatán coast, worst from spring through fall, and it can make the water smell strong and the beaches unpleasant or unswimmable for stretches of time. I hit a bad month of it and didn't swim in the ocean once. I'd recommend checking recent conditions before you travel (there's a Facebook group), and having a backup plan (a hotel with a pool, or a ferry to Cozumel) just in case.

Is Playa del Carmen or Cancún better?

For me, Playa del Carmen won on almost everything except the ocean — the town itself is more walkable and I preferred the food and overall vibe. Cancún has more reliably swimmable water day to day. If ocean time is your top priority, check sargassum timing carefully before choosing between the two.

How do you get from Playa del Carmen to Cozumel?

By ferry! It takes about 45 minutes to ferry over to Cozumel and runs frequently throughout the day. It's an easy day trip or, if you want clearer water than Playa del Carmen sometimes offers, a solid base switch.

How many days do you need in Playa del Carmen?

I spent about a month, which was more than enough given the sargassum conditions I hit. For a first visit with normal beach conditions, 4-5 days is enough to cover 5th Avenue, a Tulum day trip, and real beach time.